Behind the wine list

Wine list, please. We often make that request in restaurants, even planes have wine lists now. Ever wondered how these lists are built and how the wines are selected? Not all restaurants use the same formula, but here’s a sneak peek at the general rule of thumb.

Building a wine list has a ‘block and tackle’ component, much like the science used to stock supermarket shelves. Visual placement influences selection: the fast movers and high profit margin wines are on the top of the page on a wine list and the lower margin, interesting, slower movers towards the bottom. For example, many sauvignon blancs go at the top, with riesling, vouvray and arneis among those at the bottom.
Some ‘white tablecloth’ restaurants keep a larger ‘interest’ list for regulars, going to great lengths to keep these people happy. If you really want something interesting, be brave and ask the sommelier or wine server — they may just be able to indulge you and you will dine there again.

Demand dictates selection to a large extent. For example, a list may have three pages of pinot gris and only five chardonnay choices, because pinot gris is ‘what goes’. This may seem logical, but if it is a steak house then it seems somewhat out of balance. I was mortified a few years ago, when tasting with the buyer of a very fancy restaurant in Miami, to observe diners happily sipping zinfandel with fish. The chef hated it, but that was what they wanted so that’s what they got.

The relationship with suppliers is significant. Variety and quality, regular on time delivery and incentives are considerations in wine selection. However, some buyers have a preference for specific wines and will source only that wine from a supplier. This adds to a restaurant’s administration load, but it’s often worth it. Most restaurants tend to use multiple suppliers, adding variety to their lists.

Stock keeping space might be limited to a small cupboard, so suppliers must be able to deliver quickly at short notice. At other times a wine might not be ordered for weeks, then there may be a sudden rush of orders for it. A constant supply must therefore be maintained because it is costly to change and reprint a wine list.

Lists can be built by varietal, country, style and in other creative ways, despite the ‘block and tackle’ requirements. The list needs to be balanced, precise, informative and clear. Wait staff need to be informed about the wine list and the menu. If not, people select the safe, or cheaper, option. It’s important for suppliers to be on a good restaurant list. Punters (that’s you and me) often discover new wines at a restaurant because choice is relatively limited compared to a retail rack. Restaurants typically like to list wine that is not on promotional rotation in retail. Wine lists can introduce us to small producers and unusual varietals such as orvieto and tinta barocca.

The bottle on the table in front of us is the focus of our attention so we naturally take a harder look than we do when topping up from the fridge at home. By the glass (BTG) list options are very popular in restaurants and wine bars. Wines sold by the glass need to be in demand, turn over rapidly and have good profit margins. New Zealand is lean on good BTG listings, mainly because we’re a small country and there simply aren’t enough of us to make it viable. When you travel, get into BTG wines and explore what’s on offer. It takes one passionate waiter to recommend your wine and establish a foothold for it. I fondly remember a young waiter at PlumpJack Restaurant in San Francisco who, more than 10 years ago, single handedly converted many people to Marlborough Dry Riesling and moved more than a case a week. It’s unusual for riesling to sell that fast, but this young man’s passion meant discovery for diners and sales for me. But wine legend Robert Mondavi’s mantra ‘one restaurant at a time’ is still a good approach for brand building - not only getting on the list, but also generating bottle turnover through waiters’ recommendations.

When you’re next dining at the Viaduct or your neighbourhood eatery, look at the wine list and ask for what you like. Demanding diners who are passionate about wine have influenced changes to wine lists. If you happen to be in Chicago, pop into the Purple Pig and in London, Vinoteca, for interesting and diverse wine lists. Salute!

Erica Crawford is the marketing guru behind Kim Crawford Wines, a member of NZTE’s Beachheads Advisory Board and the Investment Committee of the University of Auckland Business School ‘s Entrepreneurs’ Challenge